Straight Razors – Core Tips in Avoiding Disappointment
Increasing numbers of men are nowadays turning to that veteran of the shaving world, the straight razor, to master their stubble. Yet some are disappointed from the word go. This article looks at some of the reasons why – and the ways to avoid them.
I get regular emails nowadays from men who have started using straight razors for their daily shaving regime, only to be disappointed and frustrated by the results. So here are a few things to think about when buying and using your first straight razor
First off – the razor itself. Now, in our modern world of price-conscious markets it's tempting to go for a straight razor that's low in price – after all, it will do the same job as an expensive one, won't it?
Sadly, ninety-nine times out of a hundred the answer is an emphatic 'no' But why? It looks the same – same shape, same handles as dearer razors, so what is the difference?
The answer usually lies in one of three things: the quality of the steel used, the heat treatments the blade undergoes and the actual grinding and honing of the blade itself. Many mass-produced cheap straight razors can be made from virtually any steel available – the results being varying quality of the finished blade from passable to downright useless. Heat treating of blades also is a highly skilled task, not learned quickly and one that requires real craftsmen to get it right. The same can be said for the grinding and honing – a razor grinder undergoes a six-year apprenticeship prior to being awarded the title 'time-served'
The answer here seems obvious: buy the best you can afford. In reality, that will mean spending probably around 60 or so, either on a restored vintage razor or an 'intro-level' new one. The vintage blade will have stood the test of time and, providing you purchase from a reputable dealer, you will almost certainly receive a straight razor that won't disappoint This level of spend on a new razor by a reputable maker such as Dovo of Germany, through one of their many dealers, will also guarantee good results.
So what other factors can lead to that much-wanted straight razor being consigned to the bathroom cabinet for good? Let's look at the most common:
Well, I have to be frank here. It's a simple thing – impatience. Shaving with a straight razor is much easier than most men believe – but it does require the learning of a new skill and is for the vast majority of users certainly not an overnight fix I always advise this – start with the easy areas first. Learn how to shave your cheeks – they are fairly flat and therefore need a relatively low level of skill for you to achieve a good result. Finish the rest off with your throwaway for now When you feel confident that you can manage your cheeks, go on to the neck area, then finally the chin and top lip. Trust me – in a shorter time than you realise you'll wonder what all the fuss was about.
Fear is also a factor. Let's not beat about the bush here – a straight razor can do fearsome damage to you if handled badly or maliciously. But then so can a kitchen knife, a chainsaw or a hedgecutter I have had emails from men who have admitted wilting with terror when it came to the actual moment of shaving – and these were no cowards, they had just been 'infected' with the demonisation of the straight razor in literature and films – Sweeney Todd, Brighton Rock, A Clockwork Orange etc. etc.
I'm not, EVER, going to say you won't cut yourself. You probably will – but a shaving nick is a world away from being 'carved' by Pinkie Brown The blade is so sharp that the slightest nick is instantly felt and, simply because the edge is so keen, a splash of cold water usually stops any bleeding – or use a styptic pencil or alum block. I still nick myself now and again, even after years of practice – it just goes with the turf.
So don't feel bad about being a bit scared – okay, wary then – about that superbly keen edge. You'd be a fool not to be. However, one of my customers made a telling point when he said to me recently 'I never thought a straight razor could be so forgiving in use'. Now this came from an absolute beginner who had been nervous about using his razor – only to find that, with a moderate amount of care, he used it with ease.
Time is another factor. If you are accustomed to leaping out of bed and going through the bathroom and your morning shave like a whirlwind it might be time for a re-think before you use a straight razor. Why? Well, there is no doubt that a shave with a straight razor cannot be rushed (unless major skin leakage isn't a problem for you) so just get up a bit earlier If this sounds a drag, then it may interest you to know that I also get many emails from guys who really enjoy their morning shave – and the extra time it gives them. They also seem to like the focussing required to use a straight razor properly, as opposed to scraping a throwaway across their face on autopilot
In conclusion – be prepared to spend a little more on a decent quality blade, Take your time and above all try to enjoy your morning shave – it shouldn't be a chore but an oasis of calm at the start of your day – a bit of 'me time'. The pitfalls described above are, if thought about, easily avoided and, once you can use your straight razor properly, you'll never look back
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